How To Look GREAT In A Dress Shirt | 7 Characteristics Of Perfect Dress Shirt

Have you ever stood in front of a mirror and felt something was off about your shirt?

But you can't put your finger on why you get that feeling?

You're not alone.

Too many men are satisfied with imperfect shirts.

That's understandable if you haven't taken the time to educate yourself on the finer points of sartorial perfection.

Finding the elusive perfect shirt is both difficult and time-consuming.

And expensive.

What difference does it make?

The shirt is an important clothing item due to its proximity to the face. It also covers about half your body. A well fitting shirt accentuates the parts of your body that are in great shape while cleverly hiding the parts you're not so proud of.

When worn under layers, the collar, placket, and cuffs are important details that can make or break your outfit.

How does a guy find a shirt that fits perfectly and looks good?

 

#1 Perfect Dress Shirt – FIT

You have heard me say a thousand times before that fit is king. 

It bears repeating again. If it doesn't fit right, don't buy it.

What constitutes a perfect fit for a shirt?

Comfort is often the main criterion while shopping for men's shirts. The perfect fit on a shirt primarily ensures freedom of movement (comfort) while presenting your body in the best light possible.

• The armholes should be high enough to prevent restricted motion.
• You should be able to slide two fingers between the collar and your neck when the shirt is buttoned up.
• The shirt sleeve cuffs should end where your palm meets your wrist.
• The sleeves should be neither tight nor billowy, to allow for natural movement.
• The shoulders should end at the point where your upper arm meets your shoulder.
• There should be no more than 3-4 inches of fabric when you pull lightly around the torso of the shirt.
• Look for pleats on the back to cinch the shirt around your torso and help conform the shirt to your specific body type.
• If you plan to wear it tucked and untucked, make sure that the end of the shirt doesn't extend past the bottom of your back pocket.

Depending on the structure of your upper body, you should choose one of these standard fits:

1. Slim fit: Appropriate for athletic men who have a slim torso. For a custom fit, add 12 cm to the hip, waist, and chest measurements in order to give you room to move about.
2. Normal fit: Suitable for muscular men. Add 16 cm to the hip, waist, and chest measurement, to achieve extra room while maintaining that unmistakably tailored look.
3. Loose fit: This fit is more appropriate for men with a fuller body. Add 20 cm to the hip, waist and chest measurements.

The greatest struggle while shopping for a shirt remains to find the perfect fit. If you can afford it, I recommend always going for a bespoke shirt made specifically for your body.

Slipping into  a freshly laundered and pressed shirt that has been custom made for you is one of life’s simple pleasures.

#2 Perfect Dress Shirt – FABRIC

For most men, choosing the perfect shirt often comes down to the choice of fabric.

Your first consideration when shopping should be whether you’re looking for a dress shirt or a sports shirt. This helps you pick the fabric for your shirt.

A dress shirt is generally made of lightweight, fine cotton, in weaves like broadcloth, twill, or pinpoint oxford.

Cotton has been the undisputed fabric choice of shirtmakers for centuries. A finely woven cotton fabric allows for good heat & moisture conduction, feels smooth against the body, is durable, and takes shape easily when ironed.Egyptian cotton and Sea Island Cotton are considered among the best raw cotton material. The longer fibers on these materials produce the best yarns.

A sport shirt can feature a more rugged weave of cotton in more casual fabric like cotton chambray/linen, or a standard oxford or flannel.

Although they do not exhibit the same desirable properties as cotton, shirts made with man-made fibers are often stain resistant, wrinkle free and inexpensive. 

#3 Characteristic Of The Perfect Shirt – COLLAR

With the wide array of collar styles available, it is best to know which collar type suits you in order to design your perfect shirt.

The collar frames your face and plays a vital role in accentuating your facial features.

These are the basic collar types available for a men's shirt:

• Classic Collar – Also known as a straight collar, this is a versatile collar that suits professional and casual occasions. Characterized by a small spread (distance between collar points) of about 8cm, the classic collar suits fuller men as it tends to elongate the face. 
• Button Down Collar – Similar to the classic collar but with buttons on the collar points (tips of the collar). The buttons secure the collar to the shirt. The least formal of all collar types, the button down collar is worn as a casual style.
• Spread Collar – The points on the collar are spread out, usually 10cm apart. The spread collar can be dressed up or down and looks good in any color, pattern, and fabric. Suitable for men with long or medium-shaped faces.
• Wide Spread Collar – The points on this collar are pulled back further, approximately 14cm apart. Ideal for fuller tie knots and looks classy even when worn unbuttoned.
• Band Collar – The band is the piece of fabric that wraps around your neck. Never worn with a tie, band collars stand up straight without the standard collar points. A casual style, they look great with a linen fabric.
• Wing Tip – This is a black tie collar worn with a tuxedo. The most formal of all collar types, the band is characterized by two wings at the front which are tucked behind a bow-tie.

#4 Characteristic Of The Perfect Shirt – CUFFS

The shirt cuffs are a small but important of the shirt. They are the only visible parts of a shirt (besides the collar) when a jacket is worn.

French cuffs are twice as long as regular cuffs and then folded back on themselves and closed with cuff links. They have a very distinct look and are usually paired with the wing type collar style or formal shirts. You have to wear cufflinks with these shirts.

A barrel cuff is also formal and has two or three vertical buttons. In general, double buttons are recommended for taller men, where as a single button for short men to give an impression of long arms. The Double button cuff also has a larger barrel length which gives a nice snug fit around the wrist, creating a sharp look for more professional or formal occasions.

The button cuff is the most common type and features square, round, or angled corners. These are single cuff which wrap around the wrist and are buttoned into place. A rounded button cuff gives off a slightly more casual and relaxed feel and is generally paired with the button-down collar.

Some cuffs feature a small button on the sleeve between the cuff and the end of the cuff opening. Called the gauntlet button, this small button prevents the sleeve around the upper arm from opening and exposing the gentleman’s wrist.

Gauntlet buttons are a sign of a quality made shirt.

Ensure that your shirt cuffs extend one inch past the jacket sleeves.

#5 Characteristic Of The Perfect Shirt – PLACKET

A shirt placket is the edge of the left front panel, with the button holes on it. This piece of fabric helps to reinforce and retain the shape in the front of your shirt.

A standard placket front is the most common style of placket in dress shirts. An inch or two of the fabric is either folded or attached as a separate piece with stitches showing on both sides. It adds stability to the front of the shirt and makes the front of the shirt aesthetically symmetrical.

A concealed shirt placket has a flap of material on the front to conceal the buttons underneath. It is also sometimes known as the Fly Front shirt placket. These shirts are generally suited for formal events that require a tuxedo, as a fly front draws attention away from the shirt to the bow tie.

Prefer a plain and simple shirt front? A shirt with no placket is your choice. The edge of the shirt’s front is folded over to create a creased edge and held together by the buttonholes. This cleaner, plain front gives the shirt a simple look. As that simplicity tends towards formality, this front style is considered dressier than the standard placket.

#6 Characteristic Of The Perfect Shirt – BUTTONS

Plastic buttons are common, inexpensive and fairly strong. However, there is a chance of them breaking if a low-quality resin has been used in their construction.

Mother of Pearl buttons are the desired alternative. These buttons are not made of pearl, but from the shell and are resilient enough to break needles. Mother of Pearl buttons cost a little more and as a result often found on higher end clothing.

Horn or wooden buttons are good alternatives for casual shirts.

While it is easier to use flat buttons, they are more prone to break. Thicker buttons will last longer, but can be a hassle to button. Use your discretion to decide which button suits your preference.

#7 Characteristic Of The Perfect Shirt – FLAIR

Think of a shirt as having a personality. Does it compliment what you are trying to convey through your dressing style?

The modern man has a variety of options for flaunting his personality through a shirt. Ranging from a solid white or blue shirt for business to more casual buttoned down checks and stripes, or florals and colorful patterns for parties.

Do you want a solid shirt for formal occasions or one with a small, office-appropriate pattern? Are you trying to make a bit more of a statement for a party or a wedding? Or are you going casual?

Attention to the details ensures the perfect shirt. Right from the cuffs to the collar, to the cut of the torso.

This style guide has been put together to help you know about the different types of detailing options available to help you design the perfect shirt for yourself.

Whether you buy off the rack or invest in a custom-fit, the trick is to understand your body structure and lifestyle needs. Unravel the mystery around the elusive perfect dress shirt and make it part of your daily sartorial routine.