Unlined Vs Lined Jackets | Should A Jacket Have A Lining | Men Style Tips

Lined Jackets vs. Unlined Jackets

Why should you wear a Lined Jacket?

Which jacket style – lined or unlined – is best for your individual needs?

In this article I'll be discussing the pros and cons of jacket linings – because a man should always know what his options are.

1. Durability

A lined jacket is basically putting a layer of material, usually Bemberg, some higher end ones. Some people ask for silk, but I don't think silk is as good as Bemberg.

Bemberg is actually made from — they take wood pulp and they turn it into a fiber, which then they sew, but it's been around for over 75 years. It came out of Germany, amazing material.

The best craftsmen in the world use this stuff and that's what you want because it's very breathable.

It's more breathable and more durable, and it's just going to help your jacket last longer. If you wear your jacket a lot, you want to have a lining.

2. Lined Jackets help keep the jacket a bit warmer

Having a lined jacket for at least three of the seasons is not bad. I mean, it works out perfectly and it's going to allow the jacket to maintain and to keep your warmth in.

It's also more common, so therefore, it's going to be generally less expensive. It's just more machines, more factories that are making jackets like this, so you're going to have a wider variety.

It's going to be something that — yeah, there's just more of them out there, so therefore the price is — you're going to be able to find better deals.

3. It allows you to cover up shotty work

sometimes you can have a great jacket on the outside and it'll fit well.

On the inside, if we were to cut it open, it's not going to look great. So by having a lining inside the jacket, you're never going to see that shotty work on the inside. Some people may say that's a disadvantage. It depends.

If you never know what's there or the jacket feels or looks great, I'm going to say go for it. Sometimes tailors get a little bit lazy on the inside and they don't make it look perfect.

That's perfectly fine as long as on the outside, you feel great and it works and it functions.

4. Adjustments

A lined jacket is going to have a lot more room usually. It depends on the company or the manufacturer.

Some manufacturers are really skimping on the amount of material they leave in there, and I'll show you guys an unlined jacket, how much, and where they usually pull the material for the adjustment like in the back or on the sides, so usually lined jackets have a bit more material in there because they can leave it and no one's going to see it.

Types of Lined Jackets

• Half-lined –  the big difference with the half-lined is it's going to go about halfway down the back. You'll normally see this on something like a seersucker suit, so you walk in and most seersucker suits are going to be half-lined.Walk into a nice place like Brooks Brothers, Paul Stuart, these places are going to carry seersucker. That jacket is normally going to be half-lined and that's exactly where the lining goes, about halfway down the back and the front is fully lined as well, so that's not truly half-lined, but that's what we call it.
• Quarter-lined – this is how I make most of my jackets. Just to let you know, for a client, I'm not going to make his first jacket unlined, the reason being is the adjustment issue I was talking about because if I need to adjust the jacket, I want to have room to do it. I want to be able to get in on the insides and perhaps make a mess if we need to make some major adjustments. I can't do that with an unlined jacket because an unlined jacket basically is showing the world what is on the inside of the jacket.

Because the inside of an unlined jacket is exposed, and that's one of the reasons that these are typically more expensive, is that the tailor has to not only make the outside the whole thing that everyone sees look great, but he also has to work on the inside the jacket, so it's like doing a double job. It's a lot of excess work.

You have to have lining in certain areas. You can actually use the outside material on the inside as well, but with a jacket, we're always going to still cover up the shoulder pads.

I used patch pockets on this jacket, but if I used welt pockets, which basically go into the material, that's another reason you need to have a lining on the front so that they cover up all the work on the pockets.

Why should you wear an Unlined Jacket?

Why do people get unlined jackets?

Besides the beauty and it's basically a work of art, is it's cooler. I just mentioned I had this one made for me when I go down to Austin, Texas.

A lot of guys complain, “Oh, I can't wear a jacket. It's incredibly hot.” Well, if you've ever been to the Middle East, the last time I checked — and I've been to the Persian Gulf a couple of times — and every time I'm in Dubai or these areas, those guys are wearing a lot more clothing. I could tell you, they're a lot cooler than the guy walking around in their t-shirt and shorts.

Basically, they are covering their skin from exposure to the sun and some of the elements, and they're actually much cooler. They're using the right fabrics. They're using the right weaves and that's what you do with an unlined jacket.

Skeleton jacket –  this is actually probably one of my favorite jackets. This is the jacket with the breast pocket on the right hand side, so we can look at the inside here.  The lining, the amount I used on here is very minimum, so the back again is totally unlined.

I would have to say that this weave is not as porous as the hopsack, but it's still a very lightweight, tropical wool, so air can move through this pretty easily, but this jacket I really just wanted it. I was traveling down south.

I wanted something that was a bit more formal, on the other hand, would be breathable, wouldn't be very hot. I did talk about durability. There are a few little tears basically where things have been cut and that's where having a lined jacket. If you wear your jacket every single day, and it gets pretty cool where you're at you're probably going to want to go with a lined jacket simply because it's going to require less maintenance, less minor repairs.

If you wear your jacket every single day, and it gets pretty cool where you're at you're probably going to want to go with a lined jacket simply because it's going to require less maintenance, less minor repairs.

You can actually have a lined jacket and have the entire lining replaced. Yes, it's going to be a little bit more expensive, but it's a lot less expensive than having an entire jacket built. The problem with the unlined jacket is if I tear anything in the back area, I basically tear through the jacket and that's a much more costly fix. There isn't a right or wrong choice when going with lined or unlined jackets. It really depends on your need, so determine what that is and make a good decision for yourself.

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