When you think about it, denim is a pretty tough workhorse. It shows up everywhere, for almost every need, serving as arguably one of menswear’s most versatile fabrics, from jeans, to jackets, shirts, and more.
While inherently casual, it can be implemented in some surprisingly put-together looks, which, while never quite formal, otherwise stand in stark contrast to the rugged history of the fabric.
And while denim can come in a variety of weights that impact how warm it wears, its tightly-woven structure doesn’t exactly make it the easiest, coolest-wearing choice on a blisteringly hot summer day.
That’s where chambray comes in.
So, What Exactly Is Chambray?
At first glance, it's pretty easy to mistake or confuse chambray for denim, but it has its fair share of distinguishing characteristics that certainly set it apart into a league of its own.
While denim is markedly made from a twill weave (featuring a diagonal ribbing pattern), chambray is a plain weave fabric, meaning it has a smoother, softer texture, as well as a significantly lighter weight to it.
This lightness allows chambray to drape in a softer, more relaxed manner, making it perhaps more suitable for warm-weather shirting and the like. Denim can be rather stiff, as you probably already know.
Chambrays yarns create a differing visual effect compared to denim. Though both use a mix of white and colored yarns, due to their weave, the white yarns mostly end up on the back of the fabric when it comes to denim. Meanwhile, chambray’s plain weave creates a more heathered look on the front due to its mix of colors.
But perhaps the most important distinguishing factor of chambray, is that its weave is less tight, and more open. Not entirely unlike linen, many chambray fabrics can be held to the light and appear semi-sheer or transparent, meaning that both light and air pass through easily.
This makes them a heck of a lot more breathable in the spring and summer months when you might need it most. And it's why many favor chambray shirts during these seasons!
A Brief History of Chambray Fabric
Unlike Denim, which owes its origins to America, Chambray is actually a product hailing from the French city of Cambrai, which, as you might have gathered, is also where its name is derived from.
Believe it or not, it was originally considered a pretty fine fabric when it arose in the 16th century, but it eventually found favor among the working class, particularly within America.
At one time, it was a staple component of American Navy uniforms, though everyday laborers appreciated it as well for its hard-wearing durability and keep-cool factor. It was softer than denim, and breathed better, too.
Naturally, it was the first choice for many blue-collar workers, and its signature blue color is exactly where that term arose from, in fact.
Of course, fashion evolves. Just like how Carhart jackets have come into vogue among even the whitest-collar types in society, so too has Chambray found new life and new meanings among different groups and subcultures.
It’s hard to pass up this type of fabric, in all fairness. All the versatility of denim, yet with an inclination towards spring and summer wear? It’s no wonder why designers like Ralph Lauren and countless others have found new ways to bring it to modern consumers in recent decades.
Clearly, chambray has an extended lease on life.
How to Wear Chambray
There are, of course, many ways you can choose to rock chambray fabric, whether in spring, summer, or all year round! Below are some of the most common chambray garments, along with a few style tips for each.
1. Chambray Shirts
Perhaps the simplest and most common type of chambray garment, it’s hard to beat the breathability and versatility of a good, reliable chambray shirt. They can be style much like a denim shirt, and can be paired with anything from khakis, to short, to jeans.
In fact, the slightly different look it offers to denim (as well as the fact that it often comes in lighter shades of blue) make it a great way to do “double denim” without looking as if you’re trying too hard.
This is especially helpful if you’re trying to lean into a classic look perhaps best personified by Ralph Lauren himself. Jeans and a denim shirt are a sort of “Canadian tuxedo” that’s somehow less of a challenge to pull off. And believe it or not, it’s even simpler with a chambray shirt instead!
Essentially, it’s an easy pairing with traditional jeans, and well worth a try!
2. Chambray Outerwear
Even when it gets warm out, it helps to try and get some layering in where you can manage it.
Lightweight and breathable outerwear are key for this, and chambray chore coats and the like can make for an excellent addition to your spring and summer wardrobe.
They’ll layer breezily over t-shirts, camp collar shirts, and any other seasonal top you might favor, all while letting a fair bit of air pass through for maximum comfort.
3. Chambray Pants
A relaxed yet sophisticated alternative summer-weight denim jeans, a good pair of chambray pants can be treated much like a pair of linen bottoms. Easy, loose wear for any spring and summer activity or occasion, that is.
While some washes of chambray may still resemble denim at first glance, the softer nature of the fabric will allow the garment to drape in a more relaxed, less stiff manner.
Wear ‘em with a linen shirt for a warm summer evening, or just a plain old tee for weekend chills. Your choice!
Just a Trend?
If until this point, you’ve been relatively unfamiliar with chambray clothing, then you might be suspicious regarding its longevity and potential for relevance in the future.
After all, no one likes to invest in pieces that they may not wear a few years down the line. Timeless style will always be king, if you ask us.
That’s why we’re glad to let you know that there’s nothing fleeting about chambray’s staying power in the modern man’s wardrobe. Let’s face it, this fabric is old. Like, pretty damn old. It originates from 16th century France, after all!
And somehow, it has managed to remain relevant all these years, sometimes taking on new life and new meanings among different demographics, but always present.
There is no doubt that it has a place in your closet, especially if you live somewhere with a hot climate (even seasonally, of course).
A chambray shirt is likely the easiest and most instantly applicable way to try it out. You can treat it as you would a denim shirt, just without the sweat.
Rugged, utilitarian, and fully casual. Or You can dress it up ever so slightly with a linen, seersucker, or summer silk sports coat (or even a full suit)!
Chambray is ready to be used how you see fit. And with a hot summer ahead for many of us, we just knew it had to be on your radar.
FAQs - Guide to Chambray
What is chambray made of?
Chambray is typically woven from 100% cotton or a cotton blend, using a colored warp and a white weft, giving it a smooth, lightweight feel.
How does chambray differ from denim?
Unlike denim’s heavy twill weave, chambray uses a plain weave, making it lighter, more breathable, and with a finer texture.
Can I machine wash chambray garments?
You can, but use cold water, mild detergent, and avoid harsh cycles. Turn pieces inside out and hang to dry to prevent shrinkage and fading.
Does chambray fade like denim?
Chambray will soften and develop character over time, but because it’s lighter and less heavily dyed than denim, color changes are more subtle.
Are chambray and linen the same?
No. Chambray is a cotton fabric with a smooth weave, while linen is made from flax fibers with a coarser, more textured feel.
What fit should I choose for a chambray shirt?
Aim for a slim-to-regular fit that skims the shoulders and torso. Avoid overly baggy cuts, as chambray’s lightweight feel benefits from a tailored look.
Is chambray dressy or casual?
Chambray leans casual but can be dressed up. Tuck it into tailored trousers and add a leather belt for a smart-casual ensemble.
Remove chambray items promptly from the dryer or line dry. Lightly iron on a cotton setting if needed, or hang in the bathroom during a hot shower to steam out creases.
