Step-by-step menswear tips for building your professional wardrobe.
Universal rules of fashion aren’t — choose the ones that fit your role in life. This series of articles looks at clothing choices for men in specific, individual careers, from undergraduate college student to high-powered financier and everything in between. Find the style and the menswear that suits you and your path in life!
When Mike Nolan started wearing a suit on the sidelines, he was a man out-of-place — overdressed in a world where coaches wore windbreakers and jogging pants (and where sporting goods manufacturers had contracts requiring coaches to wear their products). Following his appearance in a suit and tie, men’s business wear caught on and is the standard outfit for coaches in many major league sports today. Of course, brightly-colored athletic wear still has its adherents, and conventions can vary widely between sports and cities, but any athletic coach can be well-served by putting a bit of time and thought into building a wardrobe that works on the court and in the boardroom.
The Coach’s Style: Clothes with Bold Presence
Being noticed and being heard is a major part of a coach’s job. Subtle nuances of custom menswear will be largely wasted on fast-moving athletes and screaming fans, so don’t waste time or money putting together a wardrobe of finely-detailed suits and decorative flourishes like pocket squares and cufflinks. Whether you prefer a full suit, an unmatched jacket and trousers, a dress shirt or just a plain old tracksuit, be thinking in simple, striking terms that catch the eye and project confident authority.
Suits, Jackets, and Trousers: Dress Menswear for Athletic Coaches
A good coach is more than a screaming figure on the side of the court; he is an icon and a representative of his team. The boys (or girls) on the field have to play as effectively as possible and they dress accordingly. Your job is to inspire as effectively as possible, so choose clothing that displays confidence and dependability. Nothing will do this better than a classic men’s suit — simplicity helps more than it hurts, so opt for a simple, single-breasted suit in a solid color to make yourself a recognizable pillar of authority (though you may want to avoid pure black, which tends to make men look washed-out under the glare of bright sporting-venue lighting). Contrast a dark, solid suit with a light-colored shirt and a bold tie, and you have the most formal option for the well-dressed coach.
If the formality of a matched suit seems inappropriate for your team or league, a blazer and light-colored slacks can be a suitable alternative, evocative of classic sporting styles (consider the origin of the term “sports coat!”) and sharp without being intimidatingly formal. A navy blazer and khaki trousers can dress the look down far enough that a dress shirt and no tie looks appropriate, while gray flannel trousers and a necktie takes it to just below a suit’s formality. The blazer gives you a flexibility that a full suit lacks, and may help you stand out from other coaches who have embraced the dark suit as their courtside presence.
Shirts and Ties: Bold Clothing on the Court
A good suit of jacket conveys authority; a bold shirt and tie demands attention. Ideally, you’ll use both, sending a visual message that says “Look at me and listen to what I say,” but even worn without a jacket, a good dress shirt can make a more colorful and attractive statement than even glossy athletic wear. As a coach you’ll want to avoid anything light or pastel colored, choosing deep, vibrant hues instead — your shirt is going to be something a lot of people look at, so take the time to find out what colors look best with your skin and hair (or, of course, you can always sport the team colors — no one can blame you for showing spirit!).
Be careful of synthetic fibers in your shirts; while they can make glossier and brighter colors, these plastic fibers are often less breathable and allow sweat to build up quickly. Stick to natural cotton for anything you’re going to be running up and down the court in.
Ties for coaches should contrast sharply with your shirt, to help draw attention. The color doesn’t have to be loud or bright so long as it stands out against the shirt fabric. Detailed or subtle patterns are going to be lost in the hustle, so opt for solid colors or very simple, bold patterns like thick diagonal striping. You’ll want to support your neck with a broad, solid knot, so take the time to learn the full Windsor — a few extra turns of the fabric make a much stronger knot that helps give your visual impact some extra solidity.
Keep in mind that gyms or athletic fields tend to be hot, even if you aren’t doing a lot of running up and down, and invest in high-quality, absorbent V-neck undershirts. They will almost certainly be put to the test.
Administrative Menswear
Only half the job takes place on the field, so you’ll want to have a few more sober outfits set aside for the administrative side of coaching. The classic grey suit works well here (and, made from lightweight wool, can serve as courtside wear as well, saving you buying an extra suit), but pair it with a deeply-colored shirt and a bright tie (red works well) to remind people of your athletic role.
A closer fit (but not so close that it pinches or bunches up in places) will also project a more athletic image, particularly if you’ve stayed in good physical shape yourself. If your chest is particularly broad, a wider “V” in the front of the suit and larger lapels can help you look both powerful and balanced (you can read my articles on dressing athletic men for more details). Having a single white shirt set aside for the most formal occasions is a good idea — just don’t try wearing it on the court (it will sweat-stain quickly).
Sample Wardrobe: The Coach’s Clothing
The conventions of your team, league, and location are going to determine which articles of clothing you buy more of and which you only need a few of, but athletic coaches of any stripe can be well-served by keeping a few basics on hand:
Wardrobe Essentials – Clothes Every Coach Needs
1 suit (ideally in a light, breathable wool)
1+ pairs dress shoes, black Oxfords for the first pair
2+ pairs comfortable court shoes, preferably black
belts to match each pair of shoes
5-10 dress shirts
3-5 ties
1+ sport coats
5+ pairs differently-colored dress trousers (including both light and dark options)
3+ sets of athletic wear — tracksuits, etc.
2-3 solid-color polo shirts or short-sleeve dress shirts (more if you live in a hot climate)
10 V-neck undershirts
10 pairs comfortable undershorts
10 pairs dress socks (matched to the color of your trousers – try to have at least two pairs per pair of pants)
1 simple, leather- or metal-band dress watch
Wardrobe Options – Additional Styles for Coaches
1 navy blazer
3+ pairs golf or other sport shorts for summer wear
1+ pair leather sandals
1+ hat (baseball caps are of course appropriate, but you may want to experiment with dressier styles)
sunglasses
Men’s Style Guide at ATailoredSuit.com
About Antonio
