Measurements, design and cut
When clothes fit well, you feel and look great.
This is a secret that goes ignored, forgotten and unheeded every day.
The truth is that our modern world with every technological advance is quite behind when it comes to fitting the clothes on our backs.
Let’s look at why and what you can do about it.
Great fit takes time, effort and talent
So what is fit?
Fit is about the garment’s cut. It’s about the talent and budget of the tailor/designer. This is technical stuff about tailoring. Stick with me and you’ll come out on the other side well equipped to feel better in your clothes.
Around the armhole, chest, and across the back of a shirt are subtle fit elements that can mean the difference between a poorly fit shirt and one that floats over your body, moving with you like a second skin. Here’s how that works – and I’ll put it in the context of ready-to-wear vs. custom made.
Ready-to-wear men’s clothing is cut by the hundreds – the jig-saw puzzle-like pieces laid out on fabric, fit together as tightly as possible. The closer the pieces are to one another determines how much fabric is used. Saving three inches of fabric per garment by scrunching pieces closer together is a huge dollar savings over the course of a year to a ready-to-wear manufacturer. But here’s the rub. Ready-to-wear manufacturers sacrifice fit.
Custom dress shirts are cut one at a time. More importantly, the tailor shapes every piece with your body measurements and those pieces may not fit together efficiently on the fabric. So more fabric is used. Efficiency is not the goal – great fit is. So the pieces of a custom made shirt are not merely squares.
Well-shaped, and therefore well-fitting shirt pieces have curvy lines, bulges, and angles that are artfully placed so when sewn together, you have a garment that makes you feel fabulous. And the end result is a garment undeniably and inimitably you.
Elements of fit
What do you have when you pull out a ready-to-wear dress shirt from its plastic package, find and pull out all the pins and put it on? You’ve got a big square that knows nothing about your body.
Men’s clothing manufacturers debate constantly about sizing standards but one thing’s a constant – men come in unlimited sizes and the clothing off the rack comes in only a few.
Here are the elements of fit that really make the difference in a custom made dress shirt.
- You can really have your proper collar and sleeve size, even when they don’t match the ready-to-wear standards.
- Cuff size, collar proportions and angles, shirt length are all measured and made to your proportions.
- Shoulders, chest and waist.
None of the measurements matter as much as these. Your tailor interprets these numbers into a second skin for you. Your custom made dress shirt moves with you effortlessly. Even the normal pleats on the shirt back are unnecessary because all proportions match you, allowing relaxed motion in all directions.
The visual effect bears mentioning also. Whatever your body type, a dress shirt cut specifically for you, proportioned correctly flatters you. I want to stress this especially for the non-believers out there. The mantra of a non-believer is, â€˜nothing fits me right’. I’m talking directly to you now. A made-to-measure dress shirt flatters you. Take the plunge then find a new mantra. Take off your suit jacket and flaunt your best-dressed you.
Your style is vitally important. Style tells the world who you are. Fit determines how well you’re going to pull that off. Great fit from a custom-made dress shirt means great vibes, great attitude, and a polished confident look.