Gentlemen – Let’s talk about first impressions.

Specifically the kind you make on us ladies when we first meet you.

Women size you up as soon as you say “hello.”

Yes – it does go both ways.

The funny thing is she might not even realize the mental checklist forming in her head.  But make no mistake; she’s ticking off good and bad boxes.  And you know what they say about first impressions – you only get to make one.

So make yours count.

Below are 7 visual and audio cues a woman immediately notices and how you can get it right.

1 – Your Shoes

Why it matters: If eyes are the window to the soul, then shoes are the window to your style. Wear the wrong ones, and you’ll telegraph a less-than-ideal message. If they look flimsy, she’ll suspect you’re a cheapskate. If they’re ratty and worn-down, she’ll think you don’t care about your appearance (and will wonder what else you don’t care about).

How to get it right: Consider shoes an investment. Spend what you can on a few good pairs – dress shoes in both black and brown, and a loafer or driving moccasin for more casual outfits. And be sure your shoes are outfit-appropriate – that means no sneakers or sandals with a suit.

2 - Your Greeting

Why it matters: Why do you think it’s so nerve-wracking when contestants first get out of the limo on The Bachelor?  And guys, don’t pretend you haven’t watched this addictive reality series at least once. It’s because they only get a few words and gestures to make a good first impression. A greeting is the first opportunity to present yourself the way you want to be seen. Your handshake, smile and “hello” all contribute.

How to get it right: Be confident, but friendly. Don’t look past us, or up and down our frame before you reach our face. Of course, if you can barely make eye contact from nerves, that’s not very appealing either. Look us in the eye, smile warmly, and repeat our name (to help you remember it). And never underestimate the power of a firm handshake.

Take that hand out of your pocket and introduce yourself with a handshake.

3 - Your Hands

Why it matters: Since we’re already talking about handshakes, let’s discuss the state of your skin. I know that “Moisturize” probably isn’t high on your list of daily “To Do’s.” But rough hands are not something we ladies want to put up with. No one wants to touch scaly skin. Even if you think moisturizing isn’t “manly,” it’s in your best interest to keep your skin smooth.

How to get it right: Keep a hand cream at your desk at work and use it when you’re brainstorming your fantasy football lineup or trying to decide what to eat for lunch.

4 - Your “Look”

Why it matters: There are, of course, big fashion deal breakers guys (hopefully) know not to make. Showing up to a date in an “I’m with Stupid” t-shirt, for instance. Or walking into a business meeting wearing a Confederate flag biker jacket.

But usually, it’s smaller things that can trip you up with a first impression. A sloppy, untucked shirt – pants that clearly haven’t been pressed – muddy, grass-stained shoes.

How to get it right: Do a full-mirror scan before you leave your house. Do you look put together? Is your hair combed? Your shoelaces tied? Does your belt match your shoes? A quick once-over will save you from little mistakes in a first impression.

Throwing on a jacket is always a safe bet.

5 - Your Watch

Why it matters: Women don’t expect every man to flex a Rolex, but we do expect you to wear a man’s – not a kid’s – watch. No Mickey Mouse faces. No calculator watches. And nothing made of rubber if you’re not running a marathon.

How to get it right: If it’s time to upgrade your wrist wear, do a reconnaissance mission at your local department store’s watch counter to see what strikes your fancy. You can’t go wrong with a metal bracelet with a dark face, or a simple-yet-classic leather band with white face. Nothing showy, but nothing that suggests you won it in a carnival game either.

6 – Your Grammar

Why it matters: Even in the first exchange of “Hello’s” and “Hi my name is” pleasantries, ladies are making judgments. We notice if you’re using big words or not, if you say “umm,” call us “dude” or “babe,” and if your vocabulary is riddled with curses.

How to get it right: Read more books? We’re not asking for ten-dollar words dropped into every sentence, but we want to feel confident that you can hold up your end of a conversation if we introduce you to our friends or family without fear of you embarrassing us.

7 – Your Hair

Why it matters: The way you wear your hair says a lot about you. A combover trying to cover up a bald patch – you’ll seem insecure. Greasy locks that look like they haven’t been washed in days – a total turn-off.

How to get it right: Women have different opinions on the “right” length of hair, but that’s subjective. What’s more important is how it’s styled. Or really, if it’s styled at all. If you wear your hair longer, make sure it’s in check when you walk out the door. A little – not a lot – of product is best. If you’re going bald, just shave it off and rock a bare scalp without shame.

This is a guest post from my friend Megan over at Style Girlfriend - visit her blog for more men’s style advice from a woman’s perspective!    - Antonio

I wish I would have had one.

When I married my wife in 2004, I had just separated from the Marines months earlier.

And although technically I was in the reserves and could have worn my uniform, I opted not to because

1) I was getting married in the former Soviet Union

2) My uniform was in an unorganized storage unit 15,000 miles away

3) I thought finding a well-fitted suit in Ukraine would be easy.  It wasn’t, and this in part lead to me founding A Tailored Suit.

Well – looking back I wish I would have had someone ship my dress blues to me.  I have very few pictures of me in my dress uniform, and none with my wife (the pics I do have are with “wife prospects”….. which stay in storage as I want to stay married).

So – in the case you’re reading this and are undecided as to whether or not to have a military wedding, here are my reasons why you should go for it.

5 Reasons To Have A Military Wedding

1.  You have earned the right – simply put, this one of the perks of serving your country.

You may not get paid well, you may get shipped to a hostile land for 18 months, and you may have to have the same haircut for 20 years……..but you can dress like a future king on your wedding day.

2.  It sets the tone for the wedding – Weddings are naturally fun events, but when military uniforms are introduced into the mix they act as a catalyst and heighten the feelings and emotions.  Solemn moments are more reflective –  joyous moments are more joyful.  Perhaps it’s how the uniforms (and the history they represent) remind us that all that is beautiful and earthly is fleeting.  And that’s why we should cherish every moment with our good friends and family.

3.  It puts you on equal footing with the bride – Most grooms, especially in the pictures, play second fiddle to the bride.  When you wear your uniform, don’t be surprised when you start to become the person everyone wants a picture with.  The infusion of color, great fit, and classic lines shaped over centuries will make your outfit something everyone wants to have a picture with.  All you have to do is just smile!

4.  You save money – A large cost for many grooms and groomsmen are tuxedo rentals or the buying of new suits that actually fit.  You already own your uniform so no need to spend more there – assuming your groomsmen are service members as well they have the same luxury.  An added benefit is that your dress uniform should fit reasonably well thanks to inspections, you being in great shape, and military regulations requiring a form fit.  In fact for many men their dress uniform is the best fitting garment they’ll ever own (unless they go custom).

5.  You get to pull out a sword – I don’t need to elaborate on this point.  Anytime you can wear a sword and use it, outside of combat, makes for a memorable event.

A few points worth considering

Medals – If you’re newly commissioned or enlisted, chances are you have very few if any.  Don’t worry about it.  I personally love the look of a clean uniform without the fruit salad.

Swords – Be courteous of others and the institutions you’re interacting with.  Some churches do not allow swords inside – respect this and work around it.

Wearing your military uniform to a wedding as a guest – unless it is a military wedding where other uniformed men will be present, I advise caution in wearing your uniform and suggest you wear a suit.  Although you have earned the right to wear your uniform, the event you’re attending isn’t about you and a gentleman  isn’t out to steal the limelight from the bride and groom by displaying his medals and colors on another person’s big day.  Instead wear a well fitted classic suit that subtly displays your masculine physique.

Even though the author may write better books, that first one just sits better with you as you know it was made when the author was hungry and he had less of a budget.  You can tell he had to use creativity instead of money – and he results are unique and refreshing.

That’s how I feel about Alan Flusser’s Clothes and the Man.

Despite being three decades old it is still a standard-setter for anyone who wants to talk about menswear.

Flusser built a career on “Clothes and the Man,” and with good reason.  It’s a very wide-ranging guide to the fundamentals of quality menswear and a great introduction for beginning dressers as well as a resource for more experienced men of style.

I often turn to Clothes and the Man for its clear explanations of clothing fit.  It is an excellent resource for the specific measurements that men need to understand to get a good fit.

Positive — Things I Love about Clothes and the Man

1.  Simple, Helpful Illustrations — All the major points in “Clothes and the Man” are illustrated with either a photo or a big, simple pencil drawing.  The drawings are particularly helpful for taking complicated explanations and turning them into obvious examples of good and bad fit or style.

2.  Focus on Timeless Style — Flusser makes a clear and compelling case for a traditional and timeless approach to menswear that avoids and trend-chasing or fashion experiments.  He presents the creative options that are available within the boundaries of irreproachable good taste.  If you ever thought that suits and ties were stuffy or boring, this is a book that will cure you.

3.  Wardrobe and Season Discussion — There are some good guidelines on classic, season-appropriate outfits in the back of “Clothes and the Man” that make a great starting place for anyone who’s beginning to experiment with wardrobe-building.

Room For Improvement

It’s hard to find anything wrong with this book – but if I was forced into a corner I would say…..

1.  Too Formal? — Like a lot of older books on menswear, “Clothes and the Man” focuses heavily on suits and odd jacket/trouser combinations.  There’s little attention paid to more contemporary items like denim or T-shirts, other than to dismiss them as overly casual.   But is this really a weakness – I’m stretching here.

2.  Custom Tailoring Focus — Most of the advice in this book requires a tailored fit.  Flusser assumes that a man will be buying his clothing bespoke or at least having it adjusted to fit, which can be irritating if you don’t have the money to do that.

Final Recommendation

Clothes and the Man is the classic must have for any man serious about menswear.  It’s full of everything a man needs to get started with as he builds his own personal style.

I love having it on my shelf and still find myself referring back to it for all sorts of little details.  A definite five out of five stars!

Click here to buy Clothes and the Man on Amazon.com.

How does a man buy a leather briefcase?

With so many options out there, how can you make a smart purchasing decision.

I mean, this isn’t like buying a drink.  A good leather briefcase or satchel is going to cost at least $300 and the better quality ones easily break the $500 barrier.  If you’re in the market for a larger bag with special feature – you could be spending close to $1000.

If you make a buying mistake here – it’s going to be an expensive one!

With this in mind I reached out to William Scott Forshaw of Maxwell Scott Italian Leather Bags.  We spent 25 minutes discussing the details a man should look for shopping for a high quality leather briefcase.

You can listen to (or download) the MP3 interview by using the player above.

So what do we cover in this interview?

First – William walks you through the basics of understanding why a good leather bag costs at least $300 and the advantages of investing in a leather briefcase vs. a fake leather bag.

We also cover the types of leather bags, and which styles and color are more formal and which leather bags are made more for the casual dresser.

Listen to minute 6 to hear the most common mistake buyers make when choosing a bag size, and how to select the right briefcase for your needs.

Listen closely at minute 3 as William will reveal to you what parts of the bag you need to inspect to ensure it’s going to last.

He then lays out why you’re going to need to spend at least $300 for a quality leather bag and unfortunately where some manufactures skimp to save money.

I also ask William to expand on which types of cases wear out sooner, and what styles a man should lean towards if he wants a briefcase that can take a heavy beating.

I was actually surprised to learn which type of leather bag was the most durable.  Listen to minute 10 to hear William cover this.

We also cover the issue of commuting and briefcase weight.  Listen to Williams thoughts on how to properly carry a heavy briefcase without wheels at minute 13.

Again – 25 minutes of solid information on how to buy a briefcase.  Just click on the audio player above or save the file and listen at your convenience.

Thank you again to William and his team.  To view more of his company’s Italian Leather bags visit their website here http://www.maxwellscottbags.com

That’s basically what the “Details Men’s Style Manual” is.

Daniel Peres (and the editors at Details Magazine) bring their combined fashion knowledge to bear in a simple, graphic-heavy format.  This is style advice in its most digestible form.

Overall – Details Men’s Style Manual is an excellent read and worth every penny.  It is one of my favorite casual clothing texts for introducing people to the simple, basic concepts of menswear.

For my part, I sometimes use it as a double-check on contemporary styles — the book’s from 2007 and is definitely a post-millennial take on traditional menswear.

Positive – Things I Love about Details Men’s Style Manual

1. Magazine Layout — This book was written by guys who don’t usually have a lot of space to waste. Every chapter (devoted to a particular item of clothing) is five or six pages long at the most. You get the most fundamental information and then move on quickly.

2. Relaxed Style — Most really detailed menswear books assume a base dress standard that’s too high for a lot of guys’ needs. The “Details” manual is one of just a few I’ve found that don’t assume you wear a suit on a regular basis and anything else is dressing down. That makes it a lot more relevant than some of the other well-written but older books out there.

3. Modern Style Icon Interviews — They don’t always add any important knowledge, but it’s neat that each chapter ends with a one-page interview with a fashion or entertainment personality. It adds flavor and gives a perspective that isn’t the editors’.

Areas where Details Men’s Style Manual can be improved

1. Shallow Information — There’s not much room for any subject to get covered in depth. You’re just going to get the basics on each piece, so someone who’s already familiar with menswear fundamentals might not get much new information (though I always find their “Beginner – Intermediate – Advanced” examples on each piece of clothing helpful even with prior experience).

2. Relaxed Style — Yes, I listed that as an advantage too. It’s a question of knowing when the sort of casual, urbane look that the Details guys like is appropriate and when you need to adopt a more classic, timeless style. Check the “Details” manual for help building your social evening wardrobe, not your interview suits.

Final Recommendation – BUY

A definite five out of five stars for this one as an introduction to men’s style.

Details Men’s Style Manual – Click to Buy

It’s a good gift for someone whose wardrobe needs a little help — start them off with some quality information in quick, easily-digestible form.

Marked by the launch of Dr. No, the franchise has grown into a 5 billion dollar box office success.

And for those last fifty years – between saving the world and watching Honey Rider emerge from the water – James Bond has inspired men to dress sharp no matter the situation.

Consistent throughout the series has been the Tuxedo – aka Black Tie.

It has surfaced in more films than any other outfit and never grows old because it’s lines and silhouette are timeless.

So why not use a Tuxedo to your advantage this New Year’s Eve?

That’s right – call on your inner James Bond for one evening.

You’re probably going to respond with “I never wear a tux – and I would stand out”.

That’s exactly the point.

This article isn’t about being a wallflower.  It’s not about doing what you’ve always done.

This article is about using New Year’s Eve to wear the one outfit that’s guaranteed to make almost any man look like a million bucks.

But you have to do it right – and just like James Bond was guided by Vesper Lynd – this article is your guide to pulling this off.

Most men – unless they travel in rarified circles – receive only a handful of Black Tie invitations in their entire lives. A wedding here, an awards ceremony there, and plenty of men manage to dodge even those. Tuxedos are not common dress.

But once in a while it’s appropriate to wear a tuxedo even if you haven’t been specifically invited to a black tie event. New Year’s Eve is one of those nights.

Whether you own a tux or just rent one for the night this is a once-a-year chance to dress-up beyond the established code and have fun with it.

Black Tie – The James Bond Way

Black tie menswear follows a formal set of rules that offers variety but not extreme room for improvisation.

You need to stay within the established boundaries – otherwise you’re wearing a Halloween costume.

Many of you reading this may be thinking – wow, that sounds stuffy and unimaginative.

On the contrary – this is Black Tie’s greatest strength.  A well made tuxedo builds off of a proven masculine suit silhouette that has been perfected for a century.

You only need follow directions – make a few small decisions on style options – and you can be guaranteed to look like a million bucks.

Guiding Principle – The James Bond “look” is defined by an elegant, minimal style, and perfect fit.

Bond never improvises with color (beyond either black or midnight blue as the dinner suit’s base) or with casual accents.

James Bond black tie basics are:

• A single-breasted dinner jacket in midnight blue or black.

• Black-tie trousers in a matching dark wool.

• Jacket lapels and a band on the outside of each trouser leg in dark satin.

• Suspenders (braces), never a belt.

• Cummerbund or waistcoat –the most common mistake men make when wearing a tuxedo is not utilizing a waist covering. Don’t be a black-tie amateur – make the transition from trouser to jacket seamless.

• No vents or double jacket vents – the no vent look is more classic, but the double vent look is a fine modern twist and makes perfect sense for a man of action.

• Tab waist adjusters rather than a belt. In the Ian Fleming novels Bond even discusses adjusting these to go with his hidden holster.

• Hand-tied bow tie – never a clip-on. Bond in his various incarnations favors diamond-pointed ends to the bow.

• Matching shirt studs and cufflinks. Mother-of-pearl in several movies – always a timeless classic.

• Black, plain, highly-shined dress shoes – specifically polished calf oxfords rather than patent leather pumps — again, Bond a man of action.

A few things do vary stylistically from movie to movie, and although I dearly love Bond I’m forced to insist on a few traditional touches to complete the look:

• Shawl or peak lapels only – Bond occasionally appears in a notched-lapel dinner jacket, and it always looks hopelessly dated.

• Always wear a waist covering – A cummerbund is ideal for someone as active as Bond although a waistcoat helps with concealed carry. Without a waist covering Bond tends to show his suspenders and their clips, always a sloppy look.

• Neatly-folded pocket squares are usually part of the Bond ensemble but have been occasionally absent (Yes Timothy Dalton – I noticed). Make sure you stick with the traditional look and have one in plain white, neatly-folded. Or red if you’re looking to shake things up.

• Working lapel buttonhole — this isn’t necessary, but it makes boutonnières and similar decorations possible. If you’re buying a tux you should certainly insist on one; rentals may have to do without.

Can you spot what's missing?

What Bond Never Wears

A few things that get passed off as “black tie” nowadays are anachronisms with no place in formal dress. James Bond avoids them and you should too.

Men renting a tuxedo (and there’s nothing wrong with renting, so long as you’re careful) need to be particularly wary of anything that crosses the line from “black tie” to “costuming,” as more and more rental tuxes do these days:

• Colors should be entirely absent. A classic black tie ensemble is black or midnight blue with a simple white shirt.

• Shirts are plain white with studs or mother of pearl buttons. Collars are either point or wing. Do not try to introduce color here or bring in patterns. It’s not creative – it’s hideous.

• No colored lapels, vests, or cummerbunds. Yes, we said it before, but it bears repeating. These are not black tie elements. They’re purely novelty items introduced to the rental tuxedo industry in the 1970s that sadly surface at every high school prom and most American weddings. If you have someone try to sell you this – run like the wind friend, run.

Stick to the simple, elegant standard set by James Bond and you’ll be ready for anything New Year’s Eve can throw at you.

It’s big, well laid-out, and full of images and tables that encourage casual page-flipping, but also packs a wealth of real information between its covers.

Click To Buy On Amazon – The Elegant Man

I consider it one of the top ten books a man can own on style – and it could easily be argued into the top three for the right man whose lifestyle encourages more formal dress.

Overall I consider it  a vital resource for any dedicated suit-wearer, fine dresser, or man building a classic wardrobe.

Introduction

I use information from “The Elegant Man” in many of my discussions about suits and details of fabric, cut, and style. It’s one of my favorite resources for thinking about wardrobes and the way that one piece of clothing can tie in with all your other garments.

Click To Buy On Amazon – The Elegant Man

Positive – Things I Love about This Book

1. Real Tailoring Insight — The authors are experienced tailors with years in the fashion and fabric industries. They really get into details of common build error and construction methods in a way that most people don’t when they discuss menswear. There’s a deep understanding of how suits, sport jackets, blazers, and formal wear should lay on the body, and they illustrate this with both black and white images and color photographs.

2. The Fabric Overview – This alone is reason enough for many men to purchase the book.  Outside of a textile textbook, I have never bseen another men’s clothing book go into as much detail concerning the fabric from which clothing is made.  I constantly find myself reaching for this book to confirm facts when doing research for articles.

3. Serious Wardrobe Discussion — Most articles or books treat every piece of clothing as its own stand-alone category. That’s great for detail, but Villarosa and Angeli do a fantastic job writing about the concept of a “wardrobe” that all works together as well. It’s a basic idea that needs a lot more attention in modern fashion writing.

4. Care and Maintenance Instructions — The last section has some detailed advice on taking good care of high-end clothing. It’s worth having just for the illustrated step-by-step guides to clothing care, which are way better than anything you can find on a typical department store or how-to website.

Click To Buy On Amazon – The Elegant Man

Small Problems

1. High Dress Standard — The book was written by men who wear quality dress clothes as a daily habit, and speaks to men with similar tastes. There’s very little discussion of the more casual styles that a lot of men wear on a regular basis.

2. Old-Fashioned/European Styles — Some of the cuts and types of clothing discussed aren’t seen much anymore. You’re unlikely to ever need the discussion of Norfolk jackets and knickerbockers, for example (traditional British woolen hunting clothes) — though it does make for interesting reading, and adds to the coffee table book value!

Final Recommendation

Five of five stars here — this is one of the best books a serious dresser can own. If you’re going to wear suits right you want to have this one on hand.

Click To Buy On Amazon – The Elegant Man

Please note – this book is no longer in print and it appears my review has caused a shortage!  It is now much harder to find for less than $100 – if this isn’t in your price range try your local library!

First impressions matter.

They matter at work.

They matter when you’re out and about in public

And first impressions especially matter at an event where you’re meeting dozens of industry professionals face-to-face for the first time.

Because you might have built a solid repore with Charlie over hundreds of phone calls and emails, but you’ll damage it instantly if you’re embarrassing to be around or make others uncomfortable with your poor presentation.

Technology has made face-to-face meeting more important because we now meet less and less. 

Just because you can have a conference call in your pajamas does not mean you can rock a Rolling Stones T-Shirt to the Conference – even in Vegas.

Don’t be the guy whose personal presentation and social skills are so poor he has colleagues second guessing their previous positive opinion of him.  

The reality of conferences is that most people are there to network as much as they are to learn new things about their field.

However useful the speeches and presentations are, the real value for a lot of folks is going to be the exchange of business cards.

You want to look like a business card worth having.

Why Dress Matters at Business Conferences

The nature of big, crowded events is that judgments get made in a hurry.

Everyone only has so much time and there’s more people to talk to than they could ever manage.

Looking sharp is your ticket to looking worthwhile.

It may sound a little unfair to guys brought up believing that everyone should be treated equally, but a well turned-out man in a suit looks more important than someone in a pair of khakis and a polo shirt.

And in a conference setting there’s actually some fairness to that — everyone knows going into it that they need to grab attention, and the man who dresses sharp is clearly someone who can evaluate a situation and come up with the right solution for it.

So by looking good you’re not just looking like a more valuable contact — you’re proving that you are a better businessman than someone who didn’t bother.

How Sharp to Dress?

With all that said, you still have to look like the right man for your specific job.

Not every industry is a suit-and-tie industry!  Trying to look like a top exec when you’re a skilled programmer is likely to cause people looking for programmers to pass you by — thinking that you’re a hiring manager rather than a worker!

So as you prepare for your conference or trade show, be thinking about your goals and the situation you’re going to be going into.  Focus on four basic fundamentals:

• Industry and Type of Conference
• City and Country
• Climate and Activity Schedule
• Your Position and Goals

Industry and Type of Conference

Think of your industry in broad strokes:  is it conservative?  Trendy?  Way out on the exotic fringe?

You want to fit into at least the broadest possible characterization you can think of.  No matter how sharply turned-out it makes you look, a suit and tie is going to look out of place at most gardening and landscaping seminars or dog training exhibitions.  Give a nod to reality before pulling out all the stops on your wardrobe.

The type of conference you’re attending is also relevant — a half-day seminar followed by a dinner event means social dress, while several full days of panels and talks would call for a more formal business standard of dress.  Neckties up until dinner is a good rule of thumb in most business climates, while evening outfits should be a little more relaxed.

City and Country

While the conference guests set much of the tone, it’s worth remembering that every hotel or convention center is a product of its environment.  The staff and the other guests will play a part in how you look as part of the crowd.

American settings are, generally speaking, less formal than equivalent events in Western European or South Asian countries, although large cities are an exception.  Within America you can safely expect New York and the east coast in general to be the most fashion-conscious sites.  Since everyone there will be well-dressed, it behooves you to wear your business attire plus a touch or two of fashion — a pocket square or an interesting cut of coat, say.

Large convention centers in other American cities tend to be by and large indistinguishable, in terms of fashion environment.  Dress neatly and well within the boundaries of your profession and try to avoid seeming too much of a dandy.  Good style is already eye-catching — you don’t need to be ostentatious on top of it, particularly in Middle America (I love you Iowa).

Be prepared to meet outside - even if you're deciding the fate of the free world.

Climate and Activity Schedule

Your basic hotel setting is climate-controlled — sort of a no-brainer.  Long sleeves and a jacket will usually be fine, though the jacket may need to be light, particularly in the winter when indoor temperatures are raised.

If the conference moves beyond the hotel, however, or takes place at a compound of multiple buildings, be sure to take exterior temperatures into account.  A good suit loses its appeal very quickly when the wearer is sweating and flushed.  Even if 98% of your time is spent in a hotel you’ll need to prepare differently for Las Vegas in June than you would for Boston in February.

How active you plan on being is also extremely relevant — some clothes are comfortable to sit in for hours and others are very definitely not.  Your conference clothes should always fit well enough that you can both move from place to place briskly in them and sit for several hours if needed.

If the schedule includes multiple events over a long day, a change of underclothes or even shirt and jacket may be worth bringing.  A quick change of undershirt at a convenient lunch break doesn’t seem like it would make any visible difference, but you’d be surprised how much better a man who can sit comfortably looks that someone who’s fidgeting with his clothes.

Can you spot the lost tourist? What about the busy business exec?

Your Position and Goals

The key question in all of this:  what are you trying to accomplish at the conference?

Most people will usually fall into one of two basic categories:  shopping for people or selling themselves.  Broad terms, but they’re basically applicable whether you’re interested in hiring workers, landing a job, or just building useful contacts that can help you achieve long-term goals.

Dress to represent yourself as what you need:  an employer, a potential employee, or just a savvy figure in your industry.  Hiring managers may want more of a “power” look with navy blazers and bright ties, job-seekers will need to look traditional and respectable in conservative colors and patterns, and self-promoting experts can always use a few original touches in their outfit.

The key to remember here is that all of these people are always, always, always selling themselves.  Even a well-placed man who likes where he is in life can always benefit from looking like the right guy to talk to.

The Challenge of Packing

Many conferences are travel affairs.  If you’re lucky they’ll be in driving distance, but often you’re flying…..which was fun in the 70′s on Southwest airlines (do some research on their specials!)…..but no so much in 2012.

Luggage and carry-on space allotments are just getting smaller (and more expensive), so packing wisely and efficiently is an essential conference-goer’s skill:

Pack Interchangeable Clothing

Flights get delayed, conferences run late; coffee gets spilled.  Plan an outfit for each day — but make sure that the pieces from one day’s outfit can, in a pinch, be paired with pieces from another day’s to make an entirely new ensemble.

Classic menswear will serve you well here.  Stick to white or lightly-patterned, mostly-white dress shirts that can be worn with any color of jacket and trousers.  Gray trousers work with almost any outfit; so do navy blazers.  Use smaller pieces and accents like ties and pocket squares to customize, but build off of a traditional and interchangeable base.

Dress Sharp on the Flight

Save yourself the space a suit takes up by wearing one on the flight (or a jacket and odd trousers, if that’s your level of dress for the conference).  It’ll also ensure that you look good from the moment you get off the plane — you never know who’ll be there to meet you at the airport, or who you’ll see during check-in.

Sample Packing List — Two-Day Conference

• Business suit:  charcoal gray or navy blue, single-breasted jacket
• Second suit or a blazer/odd trouser combination, depending on events
• Pair of gray wool trousers
• Three white or white-based collared dress shirts
• Three neckties — conservative colors but patterned
• Three pocket squares — at least one plain white
• Two pairs dress shoes — at least one plain black lace-ups
• Belts to match shoes
• Socks to match trousers — at least one pair per pair of trousers
• Three white cotton undershirts
• Your choice of underwear
• Weather-appropriate overcoat (can also be worn on the plane as needed)
• Business-appropriate briefcase or leather notepad case as needed.

This is obviously just a sample — adjust as needed, following the advice from the article.

Remember, businesses and industries organize conferences because it’s useful for them to pick and choose out of all the active figures in the field.  You’re one of those figures — so make the effort and stand out.

Think about it – with a computer you can check out the processor, RAM, and memory specs.

With a camera, you can do a quick gauge by the megapixel and body type.

And when buying a car online, you have Carfax, Kelly’s Bluebook, and other services to help you make a good choice.

For neckties?

Nada – zip – nothing.

Until now – that’s right – this guide is about to shine some light on the subject!

To find a great tie at a value price, you have to pay attention to the details.

So here is Antonio’s guide for buying a great necktie online (or offline!).

1st – Buy A Necktie That Is The Proper Width

We’ll start with the easy part:  getting the right size.

This will serve you well whether you’re buying handmade Italian imports or off-the-rack at Sears.

Fashion has widened and narrowed ties back and forth over the years.  Don’t bother keeping track.

A good necktie is right in the comfortable middle.  3 1/4″ is ideal for most men (the width is measured at the widest point, before the tapered tip if there is one).

If you happen to be built particularly broad you may want a little extra width to keep things proportional, on up to 3 3/4″ or so.

Similarly, very slender men can go down to about 2 3/4″ without looking like they’re wearing a “skinny tie.”

Ties without any taper (a somewhat old-fashioned style these days) should be a touch skinnier, around the 2 3/4″ range as well.

From left to right we can see 3 different tie widths revealed using the dollar test. The middle tie is perfect for most men - about 3.25 inches wide.

To quickly judge width in a store I use the dollar test – since the USD is approximately 6 inches long, fold it in half and you have a 3 inch ruler.  Then you can quickly see approximately what width tie you’re about to buy.  My sweet spot for my body build/style requirements is 3.25 inches.  Yours may be bigger or smaller depending on taste.

2nd - Buy A Necktie That Is The Proper Length

Lengths vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but most “regular” ties are around 57″-58″, while “extra-long” or “tall” sizes are closer to 62″-64″.

Shorter styles are either meant for very short men (you have to be pretty far under average to need something shorter than 57″ — most shorter guys can just tie a slightly larger knot to use up length) or else are a vintage style.  Short ties were in vogue for part of the 1940s and again in the 1970s, so you may find ones down in the low 50″ ranges if you scrounge around.

The best measure of length, however, is how it falls on your own body.

The tip of a properly-tied necktie should reach just past the trouser waist.

The skinny end should reach almost as far, an inch or so shorter at the very most.  A skinny end that only comes down halfway makes the tie lack body and sway more, and often pokes out from behind if it isn’t pinned in place.

Taller men may have to buy custom ties, or at least specific “long” sizes, to be able to tie a satisfactory knot and still have a long enough tail for balance.

Shorter men can tie a larger knot like a half- or even full Windsor to use up extra cloth as needed.

3rd – Select A Quality Built Necktie – Fabric & Construction

Length and width are easy to judge with a ruler and a few minutes in a dressing room.

The real difficulty between buying good ties and buying great ones at a value price lies in your ability to judge the fabric and construction.

The highest quality made ties in the world are made from fine silk.

Synthetic fabrics give a similar sheen but none of the rich texture and straight drape of silk.

Check to see if the silk has been cut “on the bias” — across the bolt of cloth — by draping the tie over your hand.  If it hangs straight it was cut properly.  If it curls and twists to one side or the other it was not cut on the bias, and is not going to hang as neatly.

The texture of the silk is also important.  Rough silk that catches on your skin as you slide a hand over it indicates a cheaper product.  The fibers are already stiff, and will break and lose their luster quickly.  Look for smoothness and flexibility in the surface.

Judging Quality, Handmade Construction

Only the most expensive hand-made ties are still made by folding a single piece of silk over and over on itself.  Most get their weight from an interior lining.  How that lining is constructed separates the good ties from the great.

The Tie’s Lining - Very fine ties are lined with 100% wool.  This is quite expensive and fairly rare, since the fine, lightweight wool cloth is prohibitively costly to manufacture.  Blended wool can still make a fine tie — some manufacturers still mark the fineness of the wool with gold-colored bars on the inner lining, which is a good sign that you’re dealing with a quality maker.  Don’t look for it exclusively, however, as many newer ties may have abandoned the gesture.

 The Tie’s Bar Tack - What you can still look for on quality ties is the “bar tack.”  The name is a little misleading — it’s actually a small horizontal stitch on the back of the tie, right where the wide end splits to form the tip, holding the two sides together.  This helps keep the tie’s shape and is often absent on mass-produced ties.

The Tie’s Slip Stitch - If you open the back of a necktie up slightly and see a loose black thread hanging lengthwise down the inside, it’s not a manufacturing defect.  That’s the “slip stitch” — an extra stitch made down the center of the tie so that the fabric can shift up and down slightly as you tie it.

Necktie Triple Construction - Neckties are made by joining multiple lengths of cloth together (remember how they’re made from cloth cut across the bolt rather than down it).  Good construction  usually uses three panels, so you should be able to feel two different seams if you press your finger into the fabric and run it along the length of the tie.

Cheaper ties often use two lengths instead of three.  The third panel sits neatly around the neck, which helps the ends of the tie hang more smoothly.  Any tie where the seams are visible on the outside is, of course, poorly-made and not worth considering.

How To Buy A Necktie Online – In Conclusion

Paying attention to all the details I just went over will help insure you purchase a quality necktie at a fair price.  Notice I didn’t say cheap – at the end of the day the best ties will cost a pretty penny, even when on sale.

However armed with the points in this article, you’ll at least know what quality of tie your’re getting for your money.

And what companies for neckties do I recommend?  Check out my approved men’s clothing stores for merchants I trust and know.